We start our route in the sleepy village of Umoljani. Stone mosque or petrified dragon—the stories from here tell of bravery and tolerance.
From there, we walk through the Studeni Potok lowlands with their wild herbs and along the Rakitnica Canyon, the second-deepest canyon in Europe, through meadows and forest landscapes. We share these with fellow travellers and only sheep, cows, or perhaps a herd of mountain horses. The panorama of Visočica accompanies us the entire way, and with a bit of luck, we may even spot waterfalls until we reach the village of Lukomir after around two and a half hours.
Yes, Wi-Fi has arrived here, but the speed of modern times has not. The clocks here still tick as slow as 100 years ago.
In summer, 17 families make a living from farming and tourism in traditional stone houses. Grandmothers knit Priglavke, shepherds bake the best pita you’ve ever eaten on holiday.
Speaking of which: we also have traditional lunch with a Bosnian family in the village — fresh pita, salad and whatever is in season is served. We don’t use our mobile phones, except perhaps for a photo!
We also visit tombstones from the time of the Bosnian kingdom, a necropolis of Stećci, which is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
We return back to Umoljani along the same panoramic path.